Exploring Croatia

Croatia sits on the east coast of the Adriatic Sea, with its many islands, mountains and stunning coastline, its attractiveness has been the envy of many a nation. The capital city of Zagreb lies inland and is arguably as fascinating as Prague and Budapest. The city is pretty much divided into three parts, the Upper Town which dates back over a thousand years and houses the Croatian Parliament and Presidential Palace. The Lower Town is 19th century and is the cultural hub, with many bars, cafés, shops and theatres. The New Town is mostly post WWII and in all honesty is just a business district with its many high rise buildings.

My love affair with Croatia began with the depressing sights of the Serb-Croat war. In 1991, Croatia declared itself independent from Yugoslavia. Belgrade was not amused and this decree would eventually lead to full scale war, which would hold the entire world captive as live images beamed across news channels showing the carnage and in-humanity of modern warfare. One of the most visual battles was the shelling, during a ceasefire, of the historical port town of Dubrovnik. The war would last until December 1995, when normal life could finally resume.

Upon my arrival in Dubrovnik, I found an enchanted town, squeezed between the rolling mountains and the open sea. This former trade rival of Venice was full of romance, open squares and smiling faces. Despite the post war restoration, some scar’s remain which serve to remind the locals and tourists of the price paid for independence.
The town itself is full of little alleyways that lead you on an adventure around hidden shops, taverns and churches hosting mass in the open air. The perfect way to end the day is to take a walk along the old town walls as the sun sets over the ocean. There are many day trips on offer from Dubrovnik to smaller islands, secluded beaches and the island of Mljet which is mostly National Parkland. Most comprise a fish lunch of some sort and enjoyable amounts of local wine or beer.

Moving on from Dubrovnik, one has many choices to make. Each island has something special and if one has time, all deserve to be explored. Here are just a few tips on some places to visit.

Korcula – the birthplace of Marco Polo - is a personal favourite. The town walls rise up from the crystal clear water and as no surprise, its been dubbed ‘Little Dubrovnik’ with thanks to its medieval look. Not wanting to go overboard on the sunsets, but there is a cocktail bar situated on part of the town wall, which is the ultimate place for a romantic setting.

A short ferry ride from Korcula, one finds Hvar. Said to be the sunniest island in the Adriatic, it has a very relaxed feel about it. The port of Hvar Town is spectacular with what could be a hundred small islands welcoming you. The island is known for its Lavender and as one strolls the many streets, this becomes blatantly obvious. However there is a limit as to the amount of Lavender one is prepared to buy! There are many secluded beaches where one can just get away from it all with a good book. Even in the remotest area, a bar is never more than a few minutes walk and a cold beer is always welcome.

A rival to Hvar’s tag as the sunniest island is Brac. Perhaps one of the most photographed beaches is Zlatni Rat, a short walk from the town of Bol. Known as the Golden Horn, this sandy beach is very much a tourist beach and has many water sports available as well as hotels with the usual package holiday extras. This aside, it is a must visit, even if just for the day. Brac itself is famous for its stone, which was used to build the White House in Washington, D.C. The island lies close to the main coastline and is a short ferry ride from Croatia’s second city, Split.

During the height of summer, Split is a traveller’s metropolis with ferries arriving and departing at all hours. The city itself offers a solid base and some great shopping. The market has bargains on fresh fruit as well as local delicacies. For football fans, it is home to the great Hajduk Split football club and for the historian, one cannot miss a trip to Roman Emperor Diocletian’s palace. Despite the many football and basketball players, Split’s favourite son and local hero is none other than Goran Ivanisevic, the 2001 Wimbledon champion.

My final favourite and jewel of the islands is Vis. Not as accessible as the other islands, but with the right planning, you will be well on your way. Vis is the most westerly island of the larger Croatian islands. Formerly used as a naval port, it was closed to Western tourists during the Yugoslav years. The towns are small, but very idyllic. Vis Town wraps itself around the harbour and one is never short of a great meal at the many restaurants available.

A good way to get around is to hire a moped, as Komica must be visited. From Komica, you can take a charter for the day to the island of Bisevo. Arriving in Bisevo was interesting, the bar was rocking to the sounds of Boney M’s Christmas album. Despite the music, it is here that you will find the Modra Spilja - Blue Grotto - which rivals that of Capri. Heading north from Split, there are more islands to be visited, historic cities and superb coastline.

The best way to travel around is by ferry. There are a few smaller companies, but Jadrolinija Lines will become your most trusted travel companion. Make sure you take into account the ferry times, as despite the demand for travel, certain islands have limited accessibility. Getting to Croatia is simple with Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik amongst others all receiving flights from the UK. The interesting factor is accommodation. Booking ahead is helpful, but you never know when your trip will become compromised by the beauty of certain places. Arriving into port, one will find locals advertising rooms in their homes. Choose wisely or for a small fee, you can head to the tourist office and they will set you up with a bed.

Money wise, Croatia is not too expensive. Compared with Western Europe, your money will definitely go further. The local currency is the Kuna and currently one pound will get you around ten Kuna. Supermarkets and general markets are never far away, even on the islands. Eating out is easy on the wallet. Fish is a firm favourite, however meat, pizza and pasta are readily available. Local wines are surprisingly tasty along with the choice of beers. Karlovasco and Ozujsko Pivo were among my favourites.

As far as the beaches are concerned, most are sandy however to make sure you find the right spot, just ask the locals. And something to take into consideration, nude bathing is acceptable on most beaches, so bear this in mind when heading off for your first day in the sun. Simply said, Croatia is stunning and is a place where your travel dreams will come true.